I am visiting old Manila today, starting with Intramuros. It’s a walled city built during the Spanish colonial era. In the afternoon, I will visit a few museums and one of the biggest malls in the country. After talking to my Filipino friends, Manila isn’t high on their list of suggestions. However, if in Manila, Intramuros pops up across the board, so I carve out some time to check it out.
Fort Santiago
In my previous post, I settle into my Airbnb in BGC after a day in transit, and this morning I head across the city to Intramuros. I join a morning walking tour I booked on Klook, the Viva Old Manila! Intramuros Walking Tour. We meet at the entrance to Fort Santiago. After checking in with the guide, we wait in this beautiful promenade called Plaza Moriones. Meanwhile, we wait until everyone in the group arrives before setting out.
Fort Santiago is one of the oldest fortifications in Manila, built by the Spaniards at the mouth of the Pasig River. The main gate is decorated with a wood relief carving of Santiago Matamoros (St. James), the patron saint of Spain, who gives the fort its name. Inside the walls are ruins, quiet lawns and old stone arches. It’s also where José Rizal, the Philippines’ national hero, was imprisoned in 1896. Inside one of the old stone chambers, there’s even an exhibit of LEGO models of heritage buildings, which is a unique way to display the history!
Fort Santiago Dungeons and Walls
Next our tour heads down into the dungeons. They were originally built to store gunpowder, but the dampness made them a poor fit for that, so they were turned into prison cells instead. Our guide shares stories of suffering in the dungeons during the war. Some of the doorways and hallways are a very tight squeeze! Furthermore, thinking about the humidity and heat, the conditions while in captivity must have been terrible! Our guide also shares that there are times where the tour isn’t able to enter the dungeons due to the tides. As a result, I can only imagine what it was like to be locked down there during high tide. It’s a sobering realization.
Back up top, we walk along the old walls, with views over the ramparts and greenery that have grown around them.
Manila Cathedral
Next, we make our way through the streets of Intramuros to Manila Cathedral. The bronze doors at the entrance are covered in intricate panels, and inside the long nave is lined with stained glass, chandeliers and polished floors. As luck would have it, a visiting cardinal is there during our visit. And according to our guide, it’s probably why the air conditioning is on inside the cathedral. Otherwise, it’s normally off. I for one am thankful for the small comfort!
Casa Manila
Our next stop is Casa Manila, a living museum showing how an affluent Filipino family lived during the late Spanish colonial period. Walking down the cobblestone streets to get there feels like stepping back in time. Inside, the house is filled with carved wooden furniture, crystal chandeliers and painted walls, all arranged around a courtyard with a stone fountain. While exploring the house, the weather takes a turn. In fact, by the end of the tour we are sheltering from one of the many downpours during this monsoon season. Although I’m used to rain living in Vancouver, I’m still impressed with the amount of precipitation falling from the skies. It reminds me of that time Gimpy and I were caught out in the rain in Turkey! I made sure to send her a video!
Batala Bar
After the tour wraps up, I stay in Intramuros for lunch at Batala Bar, just around the corner from Casa Manila. I decide on the Pinaupong Manok Sa Asin Ni Nanay, which is chicken dry steamed in banana leaves, salt and lemongrass. I order some garlic rice to accompany it. It’s a tasty dish for lunch and a great way to stay dry out of the rain!
National Museum of the Philippines
After lunch I make my way to the National Museum of the Philippines. Since it’s a short distance, I decide to walk. The museum is spread across a few grand neoclassical buildings, and this afternoon I visit two of them. First is the National Museum of Anthropology, with galleries of earthenware pots, woven textiles, ancient burial jars and sculptures. There are multiple floors which tell the history and development of the Philippines.
Right across the lawn is the National Museum of Natural History. The centrepiece is the central atrium, dominated by the striking ‘Tree of Life’ structure. It’s a double-helix elevator tower that spirals upward toward a vaulted, glass and aluminium canopy. Surrounding this courtyard are multi-level galleries showcasing rich biodiversity and prehistoric finds, featuring everything from dinosaur fossils to a replica of Lolong (a massive saltwater crocodile).
SM Mall of Asia
In the late afternoon, I hop in a Grab and head south to SM Mall of Asia, one of the largest malls in the Philippines, right on Manila Bay. To my surprise, even though it’s only September, the mall already has its Christmas decorations up. The interior is already decked out with festive holiday displays and there are even advertisements for a full Christmas orchestral performance. In speaking with my Filipino friends this is normal and I’m impressed with how big they do Christmas! Out on the mall’s roof is a beautiful viewing area with cool art sculptures and a lovely view of the bay.
For dinner I want to try lechon, the Filipino roast pork. I see a food court shop, Por Que, which looks to specialize in it. Realistically, I’m under no illusion that this is a food court and not representative of authentic lechon, but beggars can’t be choosers, right? After dinner, I take one last stroll under the lights outside before heading back to the Airbnb to relax after a full day of exploring, before turning in for the night.
Venice Grand Canal Mall
After a long and busy day yesterday, I sleep in this morning and take it slow. Around midday I head to Venice Grand Canal Mall in McKinley Hill, a mall designed to look like Venice, complete with a canal running through the middle, Venetian-style buildings and even gondolas. I’d seen videos of this place and want to see it for myself. It’s really nice and it’s a neat concept for a mall. However, at the end of the day it’s still primarily a mall.
I stop at Shuyi Grass Jelly for a drink. I pick up a strawberry milk drink, with grass jelly and enjoy the tasty treat and respite from the heat.
SM Aura
Next up is SM Aura in BGC, another big mall. As I wander the floors, I recognize how every mall in Asia seems to have its own charm and attractions. In the middle of the mall, there’s a pop-up stand from Bakedpuff selling puff pastries. Since I’m feeling a little peckish, I pick up a box to take back to my Airbnb, where I take a quick break before heading out for dinner.
Ramen Ibuki
For dinner I head to Uptown Parade in Uptown Bonifacio, which is all lit up in the evening. I’m here for Ramen Ibuki, a ramen shop from a Japanese ramen producer. I order their Tori Foam ramen, a creamy chicken broth with a light foam on top, with extra chashu and a side of gyoza. After a week on the road already, I have a desire for some comfort food and ramen really hits the spot. With a warm, full belly, I head back to the Airbnb and turn in for the night.
From the old walled city to giant malls, Manila has shown me two very different sides in two days! Tomorrow, I will be leaving the Philippines. Fortunately, I still have most of the day for any last explorations and to start packing.